#1: Don’t Top Trees!
Never cut main branches to stubs. Many arborists say that topping is the worst thing you can do for the health of a tree. It starves the tree by drastically reducing its food-making ability and makes the tree more susceptible to insects and disease.
#2: Use the 1/3 and 1/4 Rule of Pruning
Never remove more than 1/4 of a trees crown in a season. Where possible, try to encourage side branches that form angles that are 1/3 off vertical (10:00 or 2:00 positions).
#3: How to Make a Pruning Cut
A: Make a partial cut from beneath.
B: Make a second cut from above several inches out and allow the limb to fall.
C: Complete the job with a final cut just outside the branch collar.
Make a sharp clean cut, just beyond a lateral bud or other branch.
#4: The Value of Mulch
A tree's best friend, mulch insulates soil, retains moisture, keeps out weeds, prevents soil compaction, reduces lawnmower damage, and adds an aesthetic touch to a yard or street.
#5: Where the Root Really Grows
A: Because roots need oxygen, they don't normally grow in the compacted oxygen-poor soil under paved streets.
B: The framework of major roots usually lies less than 8 to 12 inches below the surface.
C: Roots often grow outward to a diameter one to two times the height of the trees.
#6: Girdling Kills Trees
Girdling is any activity that injures the bark of a tree and extends around much of the trunk’s circumference. Often caused by lawnmowers and weed trimmers.
#7: How to Plant a Containerized Tree
Ideally, dig or roto till an area one foot deep and approximately 5 times the diameter of the root ball. The prepared soil will encourage root growth beyond the root ball and results in a healthier tree.
#8: How to Plant a Bare-Root Tree
It is best to plant bare-root trees immediately, in order to keep the fragile roots from drying out. If you can't plant because of weather or soil conditions, store the trees in a cool place and keep the roots moist.
#9: You’re Street Trees Maybe City Trees